Cảnh ven đảo Cô Đơn
Từ bờ đập hồ AYun Hạ, muốn vô đảo phải đi xuồng máy thêm 20 phút, đó cũng là con đường duy nhất dẫn vô đảo. Đây là địa điểm mới và ít người biết đến.
Đảo Cô Đơn – đúng theo tên gọi của nó, chào đón khách đường xa không phải là một nơi thơ mộng, xinh đẹp mà là hình ảnh những thân cây đã chết khô từ bao giờ, là những chiếc xuồng máy nằm trơ trọi ven bờ, những túp lều xiêu vẹo, tạm bợ, tạo nên vẻ buồn man mác và huyền bí mà không nơi nào có được.
Trên đảo chỉ có hơn chục người đàn ông mà không có bóng dáng người phụ nữ nào. Những người sống trên đảo chủ yếu là từ nơi khác đến làm ăn. Họ dựng chòi ở tạm vài năm rồi đi, hết tốp người này đi thì tốp khác lại đến. Nơi đây không lúc nào đông người.
Những túp lều xiêu vẹo trên đảo

Những người đàn ông nơi đây sống bằng nghề đánh bắt cá. Mỗi ngày họ thả lưới rồi mang cá vô đập bán cho thương lái. Mỗi tháng họ kiếm được khoảng vài trăm ngàn, gom góp tiền vài tháng họ lại gửi về cho gia đình ở quê.
Chú Phạm Văn Cường, người đã sống trên đảo hơn 20 năm tâm sự: “Chính quyền, các ban ngành với khách tham quan thì cũng hay vô, nhưng riêng gia đình thì chú không muốn. Không muốn họ thấy cảnh sống vất vả, cô đơn thế này”.
Những người trên đảo quây quần nói chuyện sau khi đánh cá

Cuộc sống khó khăn và tạm bợ, không có điện, không tivi, không đầy đủ tiện nghi nhưng những con người nơi đây vẫn luôn căng mình làm lụng với mong muốn gửi về cho gia đình những đồng bạc ít ỏi. Họ vẫn chăm chỉ làm việc, sống một cuộc sống chân chất, hiền hòa với thiên nhiên.
Đảo Cô Đơn là nơi mang trong mình vẻ đẹp mộc mạc của núi rừng Tây Nguyên, không nhộn nhịp, thơ mộng nhưng Cô Đơn vẫn thu hút người ta bằng nét huyền bí của riêng mình.

Thông tin thêm về đảo Cô Đơn của tác giả Nguyên Phương trong một lần đến hồ Ayun Hạ:

Hồ Ayun Hạ mênh mông, ngọn Chư A thai hùng vĩ, những cánh đồng ngô lúa bạt ngàn… minh chứng cho sự thay đổi hàng ngày của một vùng quê giàu tiềm năng kinh tế, văn hóa và truyền thống cách mạng. Cách Trung tâm TP. Pleiku 70 km về hướng Đông Nam, đập chính và cửa cấp nước của hồ Ayun Hạ nằm trên địa bàn xã Chư A Thai (huyện Phú Thiện, Gia Lai) và vùng ngập chính của hồ thuộc xã H’Bông, Ayun – huyện Chư Sê.

Với chiều dài 26km và chiều rộng nơi nhiều nhất 5km. Diện tích mặt hồ 3.700 ha nằm giữa những cánh rừng nguyên sinh, uốn khúc theo những thung lũng tạo nên khung cảnh hữu tình của một vùng non xanh, nước biếc, lồng lộng mây trời.

Công trình được khảo sát thiết kế và chuẩn bị từ trước năm 1986 và chính thức khởi công vào ngày 17-3-1990 theo Quyết định 315/TC ngày 11-12-1986 của Hội đồng Bộ trưỏng. Đến năm 1994 cơ bản hoàn thành và chặn dòng Ayun để tích nước.

Hồ Ayun Hạ có sức tưới 13.500 ha. Hệ thống kênh chính, kênh nội đồng ngày càng được hoàn thiện và vươn xa, đem dòng nước trong mát đến cánh đồng của các huyện Phú Thiện,  TX Ayun Pa và huyện Ia Pa. Từ khi có Hồ Ayun Hạ đất đai ở đây như vỡ ra, cây cối nảy mầm, bung biêng xanh biếc. Những rẫy lúa địa phương năng suất thấp đã lùi vào quá vãng, thay vào đó là những cánh đồng vàng trĩu hạt và niềm vui của những buôn làng vỡ òa cùng những vụ mùa bội thu. Vựa lúa Ayun Pa đã khẳng định được vị thế là vùng chuyên canh lúa lớn nhất ở Tây Nguyên. Năng suất đạt bình quân 8 tấn/ha, nhiều vùng đạt 10-12 tấn/ha, cao nhất nước. Nhiều cây trồng khác như mì, mía, thuốc lá, các cây họ đậu… đang là cứu cánh đổi đời cho người đồng bào nơi đây.

Ngoài chức năng chính là cung cấp nước tưới, nhà máy thuỷ điện Ayun Hạ đã được xây dựng với 02 tổ máy đạt sản lượng 21 triệu kw/năm và đấu nối vào lưới điện quốc gia vào năm 2001.
Có lẽ câu ca: “Ai về nhắn với nậu nguồn/ Măng le gửi xuống cá chuồn gửi lên”, đã không còn phù hợp trong giai đoạn hiện nay nữa. Hàng ngày vào buổi trưa, sau khi thuyền đánh bắt cập bến, những xe tải đông lạnh lại chở cá nước ngọt đi khắp mọi miền đất nước. Cá ở đây nhiều vô kể và đa dạng về chủng loại như: trôi, chép, mè, lăng, trắm cỏ… và đặc biệt là cá thát lát- một trong những đặc sản nức tiếng của Gia Lai.

Người viết bài này trong chiến dịch mùa hè xanh 2005 đã cùng đám trai làng A Tơ Măng xã Đê Ar, huyện Mang Yang đi “đánh cá” ở ven hồ Ayun Hạ. Đánh cá đúng với nghĩa đen của từ này, mùa mưa hàng vạn con cá quăng mình lên ven hồ săm sắp nước và mỗi người một cây gậy tre cứ nhè cá mà đập rồi cho vào gùi. Người mới nhập nghề như tôi hôm đó cũng lặc lè, è cổ gùi về làng 10 kg cá các loại.

Trên hồ còn nhiều đảo hoang chưa dấu chân người. Mỗi đảo cách nhau tới vài cây số. Đảo đông vui nhất có 10 người đàn ông quê ở Phù Mỹ, Phù Cát, Hoài Nhơn- Bình Định đến đây mưu sinh. Cuộc sống không gia đình và họ đặt tên “Đảo cô đơn” là vậy. Tại đây bạn có thể mua với giá… 20.000 đồng một kg và thưởng thức những con cá tươi ngon, cách chế biến đơn giản nhất là quấn lá rừng nướng lên và chấm với muối kiến hoặc muối é … Trên đầu là trời xanh lồng lộng, ngoài kia là mênh mang trời nước với  rừng cây nguyên sinh soi bóng biếc trên mặt hồ, thỉnh thoảng nghe tiếng chim hót gọi nhau, tiếng vượn hú từng quãng dài, lòng bạn sẽ thống thếnh, chơi vơi trở về với những bản ngã nguyên sơ nhất.

Đây! Bãi hang dơi với những tảng đá đủ hình thù kỳ lạ, tựa lưng vào núi là những cây đại thụ uy nghiêm nhưng không quên đỏm dáng với những loại phong lan  tỏa hương, khoe sắc với nắng và gió của Tây Nguyên tháng 7. Ngược dốc đến hang Dơi ta thấy con người thật nhỏ bé trước thiên nhiên, trong hang cảm giác mát lạnh đến hơi rờn rợn càng làm ta thêm sợ hãi trước sự hùng thiêng của chốn này.
Rồi Bãi tắm Tiên với làn nước xanh ngắt được thiên nhiên hữu ý lát đầy những hòn sỏi ngọc cùng sóng nước vỗ về êm ái. Ta có thể đắm mình nhớ đến “khúc hát sông quê”- Lời một bài hát Nguyễn Trọng Tạo phổ thơ Lê Huy Mậu.
Bãi Trai nơi ta có thể thỏa sức chạy nhảy, reo hò, hét thật to, hú thật to để giao hòa với đất trời, rồi cùng nhau đi tìm những con ốc, con  trai nướng chín, ủ ê với men rượu cần để quên đi cuộc sống bộn bề, mệt nhọc mới hôm qua.
Chiều về, ngồi trên thuyền xuôi theo ven hồ, tắt máy đi, dưới ráng chiều hoàng hôn chạng vạng ta có thể nghe vang vang nhịp cồng, tiếng chiêng của những buôn làng người Ja rai gần đó.
Bên quán “Quên tên” ngay ngã ba quốc lộ 25 và đường rẽ vào hồ, kết thúc một ngày với đầy cảm xúc thăng hoa, ta có thể  nghe thêm những câu chuyện về vua lửa, vua nước, truyền thuyết về thanh gươm thần vẫn còn đang được cất dấu nơi đây với những lời nguyền kỳ bí…rồi cùng thưởng thức cơm lam, thịt rừng, rượu cần với những đặc sản chỉ riêng có nơi đây như cà đắng, lá mì, tép hồ, cá bống kho nước dừa và đặc biệt là món “canh hến không cát”.
Còn quá nhiều chi tiết thú vị liên quan đến công trình đại thủy nông này, nhưng với khả năng hạn hẹp và khuôn khổ của một bài viết tôi không thể nói hết và xin hẹn ở những bài viết sau.
Và cuối cùng, người viết muốn nói lời cảm ơn chân thành và dành tặng bài báo nhỏ này đến 5 chiến sỹ đã hy sinh trong quá trình khảo sát, xây dựng công trình. Tin rằng ở thế giới trên kia, ngày ngày các anh vẫn nhìn thấy và hạnh phúc vì bao công sức của đồng đội và cả tính mạng của mình đã gửi lại đây để cho một vùng đất cằn cỗi trở nên xanh tươi, để cho dòng điện sáng ngời về với buôn làng quê tôi…

Nét kỳ bí trên đảo Cô Đơn – Ảnh: Quang Vũ

Cuộc sống lúp xúp nơi đảo Cô Đơn – Ảnh: Quang Vũ

Khung cảnh có gì đó lạ lẫm với những gì ta thường thấy – Ảnh: Quang Vũ

Cô Đơn và cái sự ám ảnh của nó trong tâm trí – Ảnh: Quang Vũ

Hòn đảo lạc lõng trên hồ Ayun – Ảnh: Quang Vũ

Đảo Cô Đơn trên hồ Ayun Hạ – Ảnh: Quang Vũ

Hoang sơ nơi đảo Cô Đơn – Ảnh: Quang Vũ

723 BÌNH LUẬN

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