Những người gắn bó cả đời người với cây chè cổ thụ

Chè Bàu Cạn nức tiếng đất Tây Nguyên đã lâu là một thứ chè ngon có tuổi thọ lên đến gần trăm tuổi, nhưng rất ít ai biết được xuất xứ của loại chè này.
Sau nhiều lần dò hỏi, chúng tôi cũng tìm được bà Lương Thị Kỳ (79 tuổi, trú tại xã Bàu Cạn), người hiếm hoi nắm khá rõ về nguồn cội của các gốc chè cổ thụ nơi đây.
Rót tách trà mời khách bà Kỳ cho biết: Từ khi đặt chân lên mảnh đất Tây Nguyên, vợ chồng bà đã gắn bó với cây chè Bàu Cạn. Dưới thời Pháp còn cai quản, tôi từng trải qua nhiều vị trí khác nhau nên tôi hiểu về chè Bàu Cạn.
Bà Kỳ bắt đầu kể cho chúng tôi nghe về những câu chuyện tưởng chừng không có hồi kết xung quanh xuất xứ thương hiệu chè Bàu Cạn.
Những năm tôi đến đây làm công nhân chè, khu vực Bàu Cạn đâu đâu cũng bao phủ bởi các đồi chè xanh mướt. Thời kỳ hưng thịnh nhất của chè Bàu Cạn, chè làm không cung cấp đủ cho thị trường. Chè được xuất khẩu đi nhiều nước trên thế giới.

“Chè Bàu Cạn chính thức được người Pháp trồng ở đây vào những năm 1927. Chè được người Pháp trồng là loại chè San Tuyết. Dưới thời Pháp, chè Bàu Cạn được trồng và chăm sóc rất cẩn thận, theo kỹ thuật của người Pháp.
Hồi đó, tôi còn nhớ rất rõ, chỉ cần công nhân hái chè sai một lỗi phải nhận hình phạt nghỉ làm 1 tuần không lương. Do tuân theo quy trình nghiêm ngặt, nên dù trải qua gần trăm năm những vườn chè ở đây vẫn còn cho năng suất rất cao” – Bà Kỳ kể thêm.
Quanh câu chuyện của bà Kỳ, bà nhắc đến ông Siu No (91 tuổi, người dân tộc Jrai) – Ông được xem là công nhân lâu năm nhất gắn bó với chè Bàu Cạn hiện còn sống.
Từ lúc biết mang khố, ông và vợ đã bị thực dân Pháp đưa đi làm cu li hái chè. Ông giờ không nhớ rõ năm cụ thể, thực dân Pháp bắt ông và vợ đến đây làm.
Ông Siu No giờ đã già, qua người con gái út phiên dịch, ông chia sẻ những câu chuyện vui mà nhờ có cây chè đã làm thay đổi đời ông: Nhờ có cây chè mà tôi quen được với vợ tôi.
Lúc đó, 2 vợ chồng cùng làm ở đồn điền chè Bàu Cạn. Vợ tôi là người hái chè rất giỏi, tôi cũng chẳng thua gì. Năm nào, hai vợ chồng cũng được tuyên dương, khen thưởng.
Những năm đó, vợ tôi hăng hái tham gia cách mạng. Cũng nhờ vợ tôi, mà tôi được giác ngộ. Hai vợ chồng vừa là công nhân chè, vừa tham gia đấu tranh trong lòng địch.
Đến nay, vợ tôi đã có hơn 40 năm tuổi Đảng và đã mất, còn tôi có 32 năm tuổi Đảng. Tiếp nối chúng tôi, hiện có các con và cháu tôi cũng là những công nhân hái chè trên mảnh đất Bàu Cạn, ông Siu No kể thêm.

Những đồi chè cổ thụ tại Bàu Cạn vẫn đang còn cho giá trị kinh tế khá cao

Hàng trăm gia đình đang được hưởng lợi từ đồi chè cổ thụ
Các “cụ chè” làm nên thương hiệu nức tiếng: Chè Bàu Cạn

Dẫn chúng tôi đi thăm vườn chè cổ thụ, anh Nguyễn Cao Đình Hưng (Cán bộ kỹ thuật chè Bàu Cạn) cho biết: Khu vực Bàu Cạn hiện có hơn 100 ha gốc chè cổ thụ. Số chè cổ thụ chiếm khoảng 1/5 diện tích chè Bàu Cạn hiện nay.

Lý giải vì sao chè ở đây không to cao như chè cổ thụ ở Suối Giàng (tỉnh Yên Bái) anh Hưng giải thích: “Chè ở đây hằng năm phải đốn thân để tạo tán.
Do vậy tán chè cổ thụ rất rộng, đường kính có cây hàng chục mét. Để đảm bảo cho các cây chè cổ thụ ở đây sinh trưởng tốt, người hái chè phải tuân thủ theo kỹ thuật nghiêm ngặt.
Với sức sống mãnh liệt từ nơi sinh trưởng, đương đầu với gió núi, sương giá, những “cụ chè” Bàu Cạn mang trong mình những tinh túy của đất trời kết tinh gần trăm năm…

Đến đây, có lẽ trong mỗi chúng ta ngoài được thưởng thức những ly trà đậm đà, thơm ngon còn được nghe nhiều câu chuyện ý nghĩa ở cái xứ được mệnh danh là đệ nhất danh trà khu vực Bắc Tây Nguyên.

Chè cổ thụ Bàu Cạn được đem trồng tại Bảo tàng Hồ Chí Minh

1038 BÌNH LUẬN

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